Bev & Ray’s Caramels

Bev and Ray generously sent me a tin of their amazing handmade caramels, and were additionally generous in sharing the recipe with me. I haven’t tried anything in the candy-making arena in over 15 years, since before I had a gas stove. In my prior residence, I did try to make caramel frosting on an electric stove and was constantly frustrated by the temperature bouncing up and down with the electric stove coil cycling on and off. These caramels were a good incentive to try again with the gas stove (and the amazing ChefAlarm thermometer, which Bev also uses and recommends!)

First observation is that this recipe calls for many, many, forms of sugar (and why shouldn’t it?). Second observation is that absolutely no-one will be surprised to hear that I somehow managed to overcook these. There was a little bit of burnt caramel on the bottom of the pan and I mistakenly scraped that up and it got mixed in. You can see the patch of dark stuff in the middle of the pan. I actually liked the addition of the burnt caramel flavor, but the issue is that the burnt part was also a bit harder, so the texture was off. I managed to contain the burnt part to one area of the finished product, so there were many caramels that were fine.

So, in my mental list of things that really don’t work with my tendency towards “bien cuit”, caramels are now included.

Anzac Biscuits and the Limits of “Bien Cuit”

I salivated over this Cook’s Illustrated article and recipe for weeks before I was able to gather the necessary ingredients (was there a pandemic run on coconut for some reason??). I had a very hard time stopping myself from just chain-eating these. They are very, very addictive!

You can see in the photo that the two trays baked for different lengths of time. The left-hand tray (12 minutes) is more blonde and the cookies were more chewy. The right-hand tray (14 minutes) is more caramelized and the cookies were more crunchy and “toothsome”. I think the mouth feel of the chewy cookie was much better, so for me it’s important not to overbake these.

It’s safe to say that I have a tendency to “strongly” bake things (I just learned that there’s a French pastry term for this: “bein cuit”). I like deep brown pastry, for example. But, there are cases where this is not a helpful inclination, and I think this cookie is an example. I mean, I don’t apply “bien cuit” to the Ikeda Christmas Cookies, though I do let them get brown on the edges where some recipes might call for taking them out prior to any browning (to preserve the color of the Candy Canes, for example).

Anyway, the goal of deep browning definitely does not apply to everything, and cookies are probably a categorical example.

[I have so much coconut leftover… ]