Croissants, Episode 1

Making the Kouign Amann and the phyllo pastry pointed me towards making croissants. I have made them once (years ago), but I wanted to try again. I started by doing some research and comparing recipes and techniques from: Julia Child (Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol. 2), Cook’s Illustrated (Jan/Feb 2012), King Arthur Baking Company (Baker’s Companion), Shirley Corriher (BakeWise), The New York Times (recipe with link to helpful video), and two versions from Joanne Chang (one from her first cookbook, Flour, and another from a later cookbook, Pastry Love). It surprised me how varied these all were. I decided to try making a hybrid version, mostly based on the King Arthur proportions and overall volume, but using the Shirley Corriher lamination method because it had the most folds. [You can click on the table below to enlarge it.]

My biggest problem with this batch came with the second turn (after the first chill). As with the Kouign Amann, the butter got too cold and when I tried to roll out the “packet”, the butter inside broke into pieces rather than spreading out. I decided to let the dough sit and warm up before proceeding, and for the 3rd through 6th letter folds I did not chill the bundle between the folds. Instead, I let the dough sit on the counter in my cool (60°F) kitchen.

I think the lamination was OK, but that broken-butter 2nd turn wasn’t pretty.

Surprisingly, only Julia Child and Joanne Chang even raise the topic of the butter possibly breaking apart and how to avoid that. It seems to me that, given this and my previous experience with the Kouign Amann, this is a common problem. Or, is my fridge colder than most?

Anyway, the result was still wonderful. I ended up with a big pile of crispy, flaky, buttery croissants, and though my math says that each one was about 300 calories, I ate lots of them! I did freeze eight of them before the final proof, which worked well. The frozen ones just have to thaw and then rise, which means sitting out overnight (“Just like the Trader Joe’s croissants”, as Christine pointed out!), then bake them as with the others.

This experience made me want to make more croissants. Stay tuned!

[Yes, this is evidence that up to the posts in early December 2021, this blog was written far after-the-fact. I mean, during World War I, nobody referred to it as “World War I”, right?]

Glazed Yeasted Doughnuts

This was another project that was inspired by Cook’s Illustrated. The photos in that article practically give off an aroma of fresh-baked, light and fluffy doughnuts. I couldn’t not make these, especially after finding that deep-frying the kettle potato chips wasn’t so scary.

Some of them were a great success (like the one that I show here with a humongous bite taken out of it), but some were flat and unexciting. I’m slowly getting more accustomed to working with yeast – whether the bought kind or the sourdough kind. Here’s what I’m learning: If the doughnut looks flat and unexciting before going into the hot oil, then it will be flat and unexciting when it comes out of the hot oil. The frying/baking won’t make it be magically fluffy if it wasn’t already there.

In hindsight I wish that I had let some of the doughnuts proof longer. Some were good to go, but many were not. I’m realizing that the “when is something proofed (proved?) enough?” question is pretty much the meaning of life with yeast-risen things.

I had lots of leftover glaze, and meant to get back to this project right away, but it’s been eight months now and it hasn’t happened. [Sigh.]